Leather Manufacturing: How is Leather Made?

Leather is a material made from animal hides, a byproduct of the meat industry. Incredibly, it has been used for thousands of years, with evidence of leather production found in ancient civilisations such as Egypt, Greece and Rome.

Leather products such as shoes, belts and bags became more common in the Middle Ages, but the Industrial Revolution marked a turning point in the history of leather manufacturing with the mass production of leather goods. Today, leather making continues to evolve with new technologies and materials being developed to make leather production more sustainable and ethical.

But how do you source sustainable leather? How do you know if the leather bag you’re wearing has been made using ethical methods? To answer these questions, you must first understand the leather manufacturing process.

In this guide, we’ll provide an overview of how leather is produced including the preparation of the hides or skins, tanning, dyeing and finishing to create beautiful and functional leather goods.

What is leather manufacturing?

Leather manufacturing is the process of transforming raw animal hides or skins into finished leather products such as clothing, footwear, bags, accessories and automotive interiors. There are different types of leather, each with unique properties and uses. You can read more about the various types of leather in our helpful guide.

The leather manufacturing process is complex and involves several stages including preserving, cleaning, tanning, dyeing and finishing to transform the raw animal material into a useable, durable and attractive leather product. It requires specialised knowledge and equipment to ensure that products are of the highest quality and meet industry standards.

The main sources of animal hides are cattle (69%), sheep (13%), goats (11%) and pigs (6%). These animals are not raised for their hides, though. Their hides are a by-product of the meat industry and would otherwise be wasted if not for the manufacturers who transform this animal-derived material into beautiful and functional leather products.

It’s important to note that the leather industry has been criticised for its environmental impact. However, there are efforts underway to develop more sustainable and responsible practices to respond to the growing demand for local, traceable and ethically produced materials in the leather industry. British Pasture Leather is the first and only producer of leather from the hides of cattle raised on regenerative farms in the UK, working from farm level to produce materials that are 100% vegetable tanned and traceable to regenerative sources.

What is the leather manufacturing process?

Making leather is a process that involves several stages. Here is a general overview of the leather manufacturing process and how leather is produced:

1.       Livestock

The first step in making leather is livestock, typically kept for meat or milk production. Hides and skins are a byproduct of the meat industry. If not used for leather production, they end up as a waste product and need to be disposed of. Making leather from the hides and skins of the animals reared on farms in the UK offers farmers an opportunity to diversify production and add an income stream.

2.       Slaughterhouse

After the animals are slaughtered, the hides and skins can be recovered and processed to make leather. It is important to note that in order to collect skins and hides, leather producers need approval to handle and store them and the abattoir may request proof of this before releasing materials. The requirements for approval to handle and store hides and skins can be found on the Government website.

3.       Preservation

The hides and skins are then preserved by salting, allowing transport and storage of the raw material. Leather hide preservation through salting works by drawing moisture out of the hide and preventing bacteria growth. Generally, the hides are spread out, coated with salt, and then stacked on top of each other by inserting more salt. The hides must sometimes be re-salted in case of long-term storage.

4.       Preparing the hides or skins (beamhouse)

Preparation plays a key role in removing the impurities, grease and other unwanted substances from the hide, ensuring a clean base, ready to absorb the tanning agents. The preparation process involves several steps including desalting (the removal of the salt used for preservation after slaughter), soaking (to clean the skins from impurities and other substances used for preservation), liming (the removal of hair from raw hides and skins), degreasing (the removal of excess components such as fat and to distribute residual grease) and fleshing (the removal of the subcutaneous tissue).

5.       Tanning

To turn animal hides into a material suitable for clothing, furniture and other uses, the hides go through a chemical process called leather tanning. The process of tanning leather changes the skin’s molecular structure to increase its durability and prevent the hides from decomposing. There are different types of tanning – which is used depends on the characteristics required for the final processing. The colour at the end of the operation reveals which agents have been used: blue indicates chrome tanning, white or beige indicates chrome-free tanning and light brown indicates vegetable tanning.

One of the main advantages of vegetable tanning is that it is natural and free from harmful chemicals. The tannins used in this process are eco-friendly and biodegradable, making this type of tanning leather process a great choice for those who are environmentally conscious. It is also considered more environmentally friendly because it doesn’t release harmful chemicals into the air and water like alternative leather tanning methods such as chrome tanning.

6.       Dyeing

Dyeing and colouring leather involves treating the animal hide with chemical substances that can alter its colour, texture and durability. Dyeing leather involves applying a coloured pigment that has been mixed with a base or alcohol, oil or water. Once the pigment is mixed it is applied to leather fibres to alter the natural tone of the leather, either adding vibrancy or enhancing the natural colour of the leather. After the dye has been applied and allowed to dry, a surface finish is applied to the leather to create a layer of protection.

7.       Finishing

Once the hide has been tanned and dyed, it goes to the finishers. Once there, the leather is finished to the required thickness and suppleness to make various leather products. The type of finishing utilised considerably influences the leather’s end use. It can lighten or darken colour or create an entirely unique look altogether. As well as creating an outer aesthetic, finishing leather protects its surface against water stains, scratches, and wear and tear related to humidity or temperature changes. 

8.       Cutting and sewing

Leather cutting and sewing are essential processes in the making of leather goods. Leather crafting is a time-honoured art form that has evolved over centuries, requiring specialist tools, techniques and materials. With the advancement of modern technology, traditional leather cutting and stitching tools have been replaced with more efficient and precise machinery. Cutting involves using a sharp tool to cut the leather into the desired shape and size, while stitching involves joining the pieces together using thread and needle to craft beautiful leather products.

9.       Consumer

After completing these steps, the final leather product is ready for the consumer. Thanks to the fantastic durability and longevity of leather the consumer will be able to use the product for many years to come, reducing the fashion industry’s environmental impact.

Leather manufacturing FAQs:

How to ensure sustainability in the leather manufacturing process?

Sustainability is becoming increasingly important in the leather industry, and there are several ways that manufacturers can ensure sustainability in their production processes and meet the changing needs of consumers. These methods include reducing water usage, using eco-friendly tanning methods, reducing waste and ensuring that hides they process are sustainably sourced.

How to source sustainable leather?

By providing better visibility into their complex supply chains, leather companies and brands help to ensure that leather products are fully traceable from the field to your home. When sourcing leather products, look for certifications like the Pasture for Life Certification which promotes high animal welfare, wildlife friendly fields and sustainable leather production.

The Parnassus way

Manufacturing leather is a complicated process involving several stages to produce an incredibly versatile product that will last, both in terms of fashion and functionality. You should seek leather goods that prioritise sustainable practices in line with the growing demand in the leather industry for local, traceable and ethically produced materials.

At Parnassus, we sell some of the very few leather products in this country that can be fully traced from the field to your home. All the production processes are carried out in the UK, using small businesses that are keeping traditional leather manufacturing alive. We source hides from farms that manage the cattle using regenerative methods, and their presence on the land is helping to restore the Lake District habitats and improve our precious ecosystem. This leather is made using a hide from cattle which was butchered for beef which would otherwise have gone to waste. If you’d like to find out more, browse our sustainable leather product range.